当兰州牛肉面跨越千里来到欧洲，外国朋友们可是“发现了新大陆”。在一条社交媒体上获得数十万点赞的视频里，只见拉面师傅正行云流水地甩面，周围围满了聚精会神拍摄的外国人。
图源：视频截图
这一幕发生在瑞典首都斯德哥尔摩一家名为“牛蘭仙牛肉面”（Ox Lan Beef Noodle）的餐厅里。
在这里，兰州牛肉面这道中国传统美食，通过视觉和味觉的双重魅力，“俘获”了众多北欧食客的胃和心。
Amid the savory aroma of simmering beef broth and the rhythmic movements of a noodle-pulling chef, Ox Lan attracts a lively crowd. This bustling restaurant is in Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, where a traditional Lanzhou delicacy has unexpectedly become a culinary sensation.
兰州牛肉面如何“闯”进瑞典？
餐厅创始人周延，32岁，来自甘肃。2023年，他在瑞典旅行时注意到，斯德哥尔摩街头有许多日本拉面和越南河粉店，当地人也都能吃得惯这种汤面，但是却没有正宗的中国面馆。周延意识到，这是推广兰州牛肉面的好机会。
The idea of opening Ox Lan took root during a 2023 trip to Stockholm, where Zhou Yan, a 32-year-old native of Gansu province in Northwest China, noticed something missing from the city's otherwise vibrant Asian food scene: while Japanese ramen and Vietnamese pho were easy to find, authentic Chinese noodles were noticeably absent. Zhou saw an opportunity to introduce Swedes — already familiar with broth-based dishes — to Lanzhou beef noodles.
2024年5月周延在瑞典的生活照。图源：受访者供图
“我一直觉得很奇怪，肯德基和麦当劳随处可见，但国外却很少有大型的中式快餐连锁店。我的梦想就是让牛肉面这样的中餐也能走向世界。”
"I've always found it curious that KFC and McDonald's are everywhere, yet there are no major Chinese fast-food chains abroad," Zhou explained. "My dream is to make Chinese fast food — like beef noodles — just as popular and widespread."
于是，周延很快便着手筹备：研读当地商业法规、聘请资深拉面师傅、选址开店。最终，瑞典首家兰州牛肉面馆正式开业。
Zhou quickly began making thorough preparations. He studied local business regulations, hired an experienced noodle-pulling chef, secured a location, and eventually opened Sweden's first Lanzhou beef noodles restaurant.
瑞典人排队也要吃，
这碗面究竟有何“魔力”？
开业后，面馆食客便络绎不绝，门前排队是常有的事。其中70%的顾客是瑞典本地人。
Since opening, Ox Lan has seen a steady stream of patrons — 70 percent of them Swedish.
据周延介绍，“牛蘭仙”最吸引瑞典食客的是“现场拉面秀”。外国顾客吃惯了的日本拉面和越南河粉大多用机器制面。而兰州牛肉面是师傅手工现拉的，当地人很少见过，都觉得新奇。
"Customers are captivated by the artistry of hand-pulled noodles," Zhou said. "They're used to ramen and pho, which are often pre-made. Watching dough transform into noodles in front of them is a whole new experience."
图源：受访者供图
此外，餐厅提供七种不同粗细的面条，从0.5毫米粗的“毛细”到5厘米粗的“大宽”，顾客都能随心挑选。这也是吸引当地顾客的一大因素。周延说：“在兰州，最受欢迎的是‘二细’，吃起来口感好又劲道。但瑞典人目前还没有特定的偏好，七种都很乐意尝试。”
Another unique feature that fascinates local customers is the option to choose the width of the noodles. Zhou offers seven variations, from a delicate 0.5 mm to a robust 50 mm strand. "In Lanzhou, the most popular choice is erxi — the fourth thinnest — for its perfect balance of texture and bite," he said. "But in Sweden, there isn't a favorite yet. People are open to trying all seven options."
餐厅不只依赖丰富的视觉体验，也看重味道。餐厅中每一碗牛肉面都严格遵循兰州牛肉面的“一清二白三红四绿五黄”的传统“五要素”，也就是清汤、白萝卜片、辣椒油、蒜苗和黄面条。
But Zhou's dedication goes beyond visual spectacle. Each bowl at Ox Lan strictly follows the traditional "five elements" of Lanzhou beef noodles: crystal-clear broth, white radish slices, chili oil, green garlic sprouts, and golden wheat noodles.
周延尤为注重汤底。每天煮汤要用到100斤牛肉，配以牛骨，再加入八角、丁香、胡椒等20味香料，熬煮上五到八个小时。为确保风味，周延每天都会去店里试尝。
Of these, Zhou pays particular attention to the broth, which simmers for five to eight hours each day. It combines 50 kilograms of beef and marrow-rich ox bones with 20 carefully chosen spices including star anise, clove, and pepper. To ensure consistency, Zhou personally tastes each batch every morning.
图源：受访者供图
入驻更多欧洲城市
面条的制作过程也在社交媒体上大受欢迎。很多瑞典当地美食博主会主动探店，拍摄手工拉面的视频。周延说，一些博主还会专门去网上了解兰州的历史文化，并介绍给粉丝。他认为这有利于中国文化的传播与交流。
The noodle-making process has also become a hit on social media. Local influencers frequently post videos of the mesmerizing hand-pulling process, turning the restaurant into an unexpected cultural ambassador. "Some content creators even research Lanzhou's history and share it with their followers," Zhou noted. "It's a beautiful form of cultural exchange."
周延说：作为牛肉面的忠实爱好者，他觉得自己有责任将家乡传统美食分享给更多人。据周延介绍，兰州这座四百万人口的城市，就有大约两三千家牛肉面馆。在他看来，对于兰州来说，牛肉面不仅仅是食物，更是当地的文化标志。
"As a devoted lover of beef hand-pulled noodles, I feel compelled to share the culinary heritage of my hometown, which dates back to 1915, with a wider audience," Zhou said. According to Zhou, Lanzhou, a city of four million people, is home to an estimated 2,000 to 3,000 beef noodle shops. "Here, beef noodles aren't just food — they're a cultural icon," he said.
周延在Ox Lan拉面馆。图源：受访者供图
目前，周延正计划在世界各地开设更多分店，西班牙的三个新店已开始筹备，法国、意大利也在计划中。未来，他想把中式快餐引入更多的欧洲大城市。
Zhou is now planning to launch more locations around the world, with three new spots already in the works in Spain. "I want to introduce Chinese fast food to more major European cities," he said. "France and Italy are next on my list."
来源：21世纪英文报 China Daily Z Weekly
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