从Lach Earn出发开往高地最大的城镇Fort William,虽然距离并不远,但是车开起来很不容易,尤其我们想绕路高地底部最漂亮的地区Glencoe,还想参观这里的一个威士忌酿酒厂,买上几瓶酒,结果就是车得坐轮渡过海,还有主路是单行宽度,错车的时候全靠司机使用自己一边的过渡宽带了。
路边宽出来的部分是错车区
载我们车辆过海峡的轮渡
威士忌酿酒厂
好在苏格兰人非常合作,常常主动让别人先过,错车的时候还不忘挥手致意,有时候也用错车宽带让后面的车先走(我们度假不赶时间慢慢看风景所以开的慢),超车之后的车也不忘闪一下尾灯致意让车的司机。
苏格兰人真的很有修养,到了几乎时时让我感叹的程度。
大约还有十分钟到Fort William时,会看到格伦芬南高架桥(Glenfinnan Viaduct)位于路边不远处,这个苏格兰高地的高架桥建于1897年至1901年间,至今已经有一百多年的历史,作为《哈利波特》电影取景地之一,霍格沃茨特快列车在此桥飞驰而过,所以这里非常有名气,但值得注意的是,苏格兰人很注意保持原始环境,因此这里丝毫没有过度开发,保持了原始的风貌,只是停车要5英镑,也没有其他的门票什么。
其实苏格兰高地很多地方都有这样的高架桥,我就在离开湖边别墅不久在路边看到一个不知名的,没有游人驻足,但依旧让人有震撼之感。
到达Fort William,你便根本无法错过本尼维斯山(Ben Nevis),因为它就伫立在你眼前,非常壮硕,它是不列颠群岛以及英国本土最高的山峰,高1345米,本尼维斯山每年吸引大约100,000名登山者,但是由于绝大多数的游客缺少登山经验,加上多变的气候,仅在1990年至1995年间就已造成了13宗登山死亡事故,所以这一次我也就只是看看,但未来我肯定要来这里登山的。
离开Fort William继续北上一小时,就可以到达爱莲朵娜城堡(Eilean Donan Castle),它坐落在三湖(Loch Long、Loch Alsh、Loch Duich)交界的一个小岛上,小岛与陆地之间由一座石桥连接,因为依山傍水的缘故,景色特别棒,被评为高地最美的城堡。
如果还有时间的话,你一定不要错过天空岛(Isle of Skye),距城堡四十几分钟的车程,它是苏格兰大陆以西内赫布里底群岛中最大也最北的岛屿,Isle of Skye是盖尔语,翻译过来应该是“迷雾中的岛屿”,因为Skye和Sky两个词太像了,也被诗意地翻译作天空岛。
在苏格兰的日子,我常说的一句话就是:上帝简直太偏爱苏格兰了,这里有美丽的山脉、澄清的岛屿、智慧的人民、美味的食物、有创造力的群体……我简直用完了我全部能找到的形容词。
好友笑了,和我开玩笑说,你知道这里流传的一个笑话吗?可以谷歌搜一下看。
结果我找到了,看完开怀大笑(有些人读下来可能感到不适,请慎选)。
原文我贴在下面,我只翻译了和苏格兰有关的一段。
加布里埃尔问:这里是什么?
上帝说:这是苏格兰,地球上最漂亮的地方,有皑皑白雪盖顶的山脉,无人涉足的河流,漂亮的小溪和让时光驻足的湖泊,人们制造一种叫做生命之水的威士忌,苏格兰人还长得好看,聪明而且幽默,会旅行全球,他们很会社交,工作努力,成绩斐然,在世界上以成功的武士、工程师、发明家和开拓者闻名。
加布里埃尔发出一声惊呼,但还是忍不住问:那你说的平衡在哪里?
上帝非常智慧地回复:等下你看我安放在它身边的王八蛋邻居……(指英格兰,独舞注)
Once upon a time in the Kingdom of Heaven, God went missing for six days.
Eventually, Gabriel the archangel found him, resting on the seventh day.
He inquired of God, "Where have you been?"
God sighed a deep sigh of satisfaction and proudly pointed
downwards through the clouds,
"Look Gabriel, look what I've made."
Archangel Gabriel looked puzzled and said,
"What is it?"
"It's a planet", replied God, "and I've put LIFE on it. I'm going to call it Earth and it's going to be a great place of balance".
"Balance?" inquired Gabriel, still confused.
God explained, pointing to different parts of Earth. "For example,
Northern Europe will be a place of great opportunity and wealth while Southern
Europe is going to be poor; the Middle East over there will be a hot spot."
"Over there I've placed a continent of white people and over there is a continent of black people" God continued, pointing to different countries.
And over there, I call this place America. North America will be rich and powerful and cold, while South America will be poor, and hot and friendly.
And the little spot in the middle is Central America which is a hot spot.
Can you see the balance?"
"Yes" said the Archangel, impressed by Gods work, then he pointed to a small country in Northern Europe,
"What's that one?"
"Ah" said God. "That's Scotland, the most glorious place on Earth. There are beautiful snow capped mountains, untouched rivers, streams and lochs of exquisite, timeless beauty.
The people make a drink called Uisge Beatha or Whiskey which means "The Water of Life".
The people are good looking, intelligent and humorous and they're going to be
found travelling the world. They'll be extremely sociable, hard-working and high-achieving, and they will be known throughout the world as warriors, engineers, inventors and pioneers.
Gabriel gasped in wonder and admiration but then said
"You said there will be BALANCE!"
God replied wisely.
"Wait until you see the bastards I'm putting next to them!".